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Best way to drive for range?

There are different driving techniques to getting the best range out the battery.

I have found what works best for me is not trying to go over 52MPH. Another is not to creep or trundle in traffic. ie. don’t crawl along at 5-10 mph accelerate up and free wheel works a lot better.

The low speed torque to keep the car moving at a constant 5mph uses more power than stop start. I have found that the recharge stops below 8MPH so if you can get above this and then release the pedal you will do better than a steady lower speed.

Having said that, the hill back to my house will knock 8 miles off the estimated range in one go and that is without max power all the way up. Shame it doesn’t add 8 miles on the way down. :smiley:

Oh and one last thing staying below the speed limit, especially when there are camera’s about helps save money! :wink:


I find the best results come from going as slow as possible on the road, ie 20 ish.
obviously this isn’t possible most of the time, at least for me, as I do lots of A roads.
my range would appear to be about 30"to 40 miles, according to the display.
Anyone got some " best results"

Depends on how often I return to my house. But I suppose I get 43-50 if I don’t return home every 6 miles (return trip to work).

As Russell says the Motorway is the killer the constant speed draws more power than the stop start of town. I have had the estimated range reading 50+ miles after doing 4 miles. Then I went up the hill! What surprises me is the the estimated range after a full charge. It varies between 35 and 40, but goes UP when I leave my house. I think my location affects it, as it calculates the range based on how it was driven the return home lowers the estimate until I leave. However I do not get the benefit when leaving home on a full charge as it cannot put more in - the regen arrow doesn’t come on until I have used some battery. (.5 miles)


[FONT=Times][FONT=tahoma]In my experience, finding the glide point helps a lot: you can use the display to figure out when that is. (No electricity flowing in or out of the battery)

For best range, I often find that driving immediately after charging will help, as you’re not letting the battery self-discharge from 100 percent to say… 98 percent.

In every other way, looking ahead and reading the road helps a lot… more I think than driving slowly.

So far, I’m reliably getting 45 miles at 30-40 mph with some gentle right foot and coasting where possible. Yesterday, I think I got 40 miles from the charge, with a passenger for most of it (and some shopping)

With our Leaf, correct tyre pressures have helped a lot, along with some careful route planning. Stop/start will kill range, so sometimes it’s better to do a longer route with a constant speed than a shorter one with stop/start traffic.

Case in point: we used to drive cross-country in our Leaf from Bristol to Oxford, arriving with 9 miles of range left. On the motorway, it’s slightly longer, but we arrive with more charge thanks to sitting at a constant 55-60 mph on the motorway.

I have always considered myself to be capable of producing good mpg if required in a petrol car. never cold be bothered generally, but I have learned some new tricks in the Twizy, even in 1 week, like never braking, it’s amazing how you can use the recharge facility to slow down.
Any way it’s time I got the GT3RS out to burn up a few fossils. Too much green is no good

I had to go to the Petrol station and put Petrol in my Twizy on Monday night!!

Son needed some for his lawnmower. :slight_smile:

On the flat, it’s all about speed. We tell punters that the Twizy is a 30-50 vehicle - 50 miles at 30mph, 30 miles at 50mph. The graph above shows where the energy goes on a Tesla at various constant speeds on the flat. A Twizy has about the same drag factor and cross section (maybe a bit worse). What it doesn’t show is the effect of hills, where you have to lift the vehicle and its contents, or acceleration.

We get about 120 watt hours per mile off the wall, but we don’t know what the charger efficiency is.

Interesting stuff :slight_smile:

The graph backs up my view that creeping at less than 8mph is bad. Accelerate and coast.

I like the 30/50 rule. But Hills do adjust this, like passengers.

Passengers make little or no difference at constant speed on the flat. They obviously make a lot of difference on hills and if you accelerate hard, which is not surprising when you consider that a passenger can contribute 15% of the all up weight of a Twizy. When we’re worried about range, we try to aim for one power “bar” or less. This is fine on back roads, and the Twizy seems happy to climb hills very slowly (the kWh needed to climb a given hill should be independent of the speed at which you do it, unless you get up to speeds where wind resistance is significant).

I’d agree with the passenger thing. I just did a 46 miles trip today from full, with my 10-year old in the back.

We climbed some pretty big hills too – in and around the cotswolds.

Got home with just 5 percent left, and only one or two miles remaining.

That’s pretty good and about 3 miles more than I would expect with 2adults and with my hills. Cotswold s hills must be kinder than the Peak District ones. I’m worried about pushing the limits as I always have to finish at the top of a big hill. Now getting 43 to 47 mile range with 2 or 3 trips up the hill and 50% of journeys being 2 up.

The recent high winds reminded me that wind resistance is a major power drain, and I haven’t yet figured out the exact nature of the Twizy controller’s cut-off. If it is simply based on road speed, then you could see a dramatic increase in consumption when heading into, say, a (quite modest) 20mph headwind at maximum speed. If it is based on power, then you won’t be able to maintain a higher speed than your maximum in still air minus whatever the speed of the headwind is - but your consumption will still go up because it will still take you longer to get where you’re going even though you’re using maximum power. The best way to find out, I guess, is going down hill into a stiff wind - if you can still make 52mph, then the cutoff is road speed based so you can expect a severe range reduction when heading into a strong wind at maximum speed.

Power to the motor is cut off at a measured 52mph, if you are in a headwind you struggle to make it unless on dead flat or downhill, if you lift off at 52mph downhill, speed will increase as long as no throttle is needed-I have had 56mph throttle off downhill.

Boom Boom :rolleyes:

Hmmmm I said that on the 1st page as well

Oh, Rickey22 has disappeared.

Thought you’d been cloned :lol:

Indian washers anyone?