Front brake maintenance

The twizy brakes have the tendency to get stuck. The abrasion accumulates in the brake system an the component’s movement gets inhibited. Because english is not my native language, some technical terms will be wrong. If in doubt, clear those doubts before continuing.

You need
jack
torque wrench
hex key 5 (dont know if your size system is different)
wrench 13 (i use a socket wrench)
big srewdriver
electric screwdriver
sand paper
brake cleaner
copper paste
screw glue mediun strength (ie loctite)
and: steel brush, brush, cleaning cloth, work gloves

first apply handbrake firmly and secure the other front wheel with a wedge against moving. Lift twizy and take off the wheel. Remove the mud guard. You can do it with mounted mud guard, but you can work better with it removed. Feel your way along the mud guard’s rods to it’s screws, and loosen the three 13-screws.

You can see now the wheel reciever with the disc and the brake system. To get the pads out, the whole brake system has to be taken off.

Loosen the guide bolts with the hex key.

Dont take them out, just loosen them some turns. Make sure the hex kex is fully inserted, otherwise you will damage the bolts.

Now loosen the two 13-screws at the brake system’s back. They are next to the screw thread of the mud guard.

The brake system is now detached but cant be pulled from the disc. The disc forms out an edge with prevents that. You have to push the pads apart.

Position the screwdriver as shown and lever the pad sloooooooowly from the disc. Occasionally try if you can remove the brake system and continue levering if neccesarry.

“You may only attach up to 5 files per post” so i will continue in the next one.

Take off brake system and put it on the wheel receiver.

To get the pads out, remove the guide bolts. As soon the bolts windings are out, push the pads down: You will get the bolts out much easier.

remove pads and bolts

The pads move on these bolts. The abrasion makes that difficult and so the bolts have to be cleaned. Chuck one bolt into your electric screw driver and polish it with the sand paper.

The inner pad moves also on the brake calliper. The touching areas have to be treated with copper paste later.

Remove the spring from the bottom of the calliper and clean it the steel brush. With brake cleaner, cloth and brush clean the calliper and the pads. The brake cleaner dissolves the dirt. If you just let it dry, the dirt stays where it was. You have to soak the brake cleaner and take the dirt away. Clean the gliding surfaces well. Also clean the three cuts in the pads.

Before you can assemble everything, you have to clean the brake piston. Normally you dont have to do that, but you pressed it in when you levered out the brake system. Dirt was inserted into the piston’s hull.

Open the door and push down the brake pedal while watching the piston. Press down the pedal untill you can see the clean area of the piston.

You can see the change from clean to dirty. Now clean the piston well with brake cleaner.

The brake system will not fit on the disc, because you pushed out the piston. If you try to push it in with your hands you will either move the floating calliper or move nothing at all. Do not move the floating calliper. To have a bigger contact area, put in the inner pad.

I used a Y-screw-clamp to push the piston. Push it slowly and put the outer pad in occasionally to try if it already fits.

I will continue in a few hours.

Great posting and most useful-more stuff like this needed

10/10

Cheers

Before you reassemble everything, here is a picture to show you the setting.

The guide bolts hold the pads an press them against the spring.

Now put in the spring and treat the inner pad with copper paste.

Dont let copper paste get on the pad’s surface. Insert inner pad and remove misguided copper paste.

Fit the outer pad and put in the guide bolts. Press the pads down while putting them in. Dont screw in the guide bolts, just insert them. Push the brake system above the disc and screw in holding screws, so that you know that the brake system is in the right position. Remove the holding screws and wet the winding with one drop of screw glue. Spread the glue all over the winding and screw in. Tighten not too strong and not too weak. Treat holding bolts also with screw glue and tighten them.
Check everything for it’s right position.
Mount the wheel, lower twizy to the ground, tighten wheel bolts with 75 Nm.
Perform brake test at low speed.
finished :slight_smile:

Great posting and most useful-more stuff like this needed

:slight_smile:

I noticed that the first picture is gone.

Thats the “You need”-picture.

two other helpful picutres:

Well, they are displayed quite big. I dont know how to adjust that.

Great pictures and Tutorial! :smiley:
How different are the rears to do with the handbrake?

Andy

Great pictures and Tutorial! :smiley:
How different are the rears to do with the handbrake?

The rear brake is completely different, not only because of the hand brake. I will do a tutorial on them during the next days.

Brilliant simply brilliant.

Many thanks for doing this.

Thank you for this guide.

Today I stripped down, cleaned and rebuilt my brakes.

I intended to paint the calipers but they cleaned up so well with my mini drill, I just coated them with alloy wheel sealant.

Time will tell how well they last.

I found my brake caliper tool too large but could wind the rear calipers back in using some long nose pliers.

Photos attached for further reference.