HHave had these in stock for months now, but the brake pedal has got so poor (huge pedal travel) that I decided to replace them before I crashed.
Pedal has been really bad since the last pad change, I have bled them several times assumed the pads needed to bed into the very poor disc surfaces, but they have just got worse.
This is the old discs
There are quite a few parts to remove, due to the way the discs are made up , ie a complete hub assembly.
Drop off the control arm
This allows you to turn the whole assembly. I drove a chisel into the lower ballpoint mount, to spread it apart, especially as the hub is going in the bin & the ball joint needs to be undamaged
This is the ballpoint separated, it’s the hardest part of the job
Remove the caliper, and undo the driveshaft nut (30mm) and separate the shaft from the hub
Once the pinch bolt is removed, drop the hub from the damper assembly
Now you can clean everything & build the new assembly back together & you end up with this
Now for the interesting part, after doing 1 side, the Twizy had no brakes, even worse than before
After much deliberation I discovered that the calipers are different to 99.9% of all cars. I had wound the Pistons back to facilitate the new pads & thicker discs THIS IS INCORRECT.
You must adjust the Pistons so that they only just allow the pads to fit, if you wind them back too far, they can’t compensate on their own & you have no brakes.
After a little fiddling, I discovered you can adjust the piston in situ and get a “just rubbing” fit with the new pads & hay presto, a rock solid pedal & fabulous handbrake . I have never seen a caliper like this before& would guess that many people will or realise this is how they work, hence my post.
Here is a shot of the piston in the caliper
And a small screwdriver in the slot, to rotate the piston
Hope this info helps a few of you out