Typ 2 Tips or summary

Have read and tried to understand it with type 2 contacts myself. This is what I came up with to point out if I am wrong somewhere.

The charging box is started either by starting it with:

  1. a tag
  2. with a button on the box
  3. or it is by receiving a signal when you lock the car.

On an adapter from 220V to type 2 you do this by having sockets on the handle. So what do you do if you don’t have it? Then the contact gets stuck in the charging box. In order to get it locked, the box must be shut off then the unloading will go off and you can pull out the contact.

It is in the boxes that the car’s doors control the impulse to the contact by locking doors as the problem arises. Solution to it is rotate switch on the handle. Or … The solution I have made on my cable (without key) this has worked well!
I have easily sanded away the edges where the lock should lock and hold the connector. Now the lock goes in but it locks in the air.!

Maybe you can also add that fast blades need another resistor in the connector think it should be 1500 Ohm. What do you think? Did it become easy? What do you think of my solution?

I have a little key that I had to cycle on and off to get it to unlock.

Charging is nothing to do with the vehicles doors shutting.
The charge outlet is a device that turns the Mains electricity on and off. If its a public charger, it will normally require an App or a RFID tag/card to initialise the charge outlet. With a normal EV using type 2 if you plug the cable into the outlet but not the car, no power is turned on. When you plug the cable into the car, the handshake is completed, this firstly checks that you are not trying to plug a 32a vehicle into a 16a charge outlet, if you do , the mains wont be started. Of if your car is clever enough, it will respond by reducing the charge rate and then the charge outlet will turn on.
You should have a switch or push button on your cable, on the ones I make I have a IP67 rated push button that interrupts the pilot signal and turns off the charge outlet. This mimics unplugging the car end of a normal charge cable.
You cannot use a std Type 2 connector that goes into a wall outlet , in a tethered cable, the internal pins do not make contact and the mains wont be turned on.

You have partial total error. In free withdrawals ie the ones you do not pay make charging in, this works great. Some of these charging places start the stream after I have chosen which socket I use, in other places the charging places sense that the cable is connected (through the resistor in the contact) these sockets lock the cable. So … In the first case, nothing is strange in the second, just pull out the cable if the edges are eroded. You can say that it works to charge in both these cases. Furthermore, there are withdrawals where you pay for recharge, then you need to talk about who is consuming so charging will be right.

The lock on the bill doors (not twizy) has to do with the thing because it locks the contact at the car’s end. Example Kia Niro.

I have not tested coupling it in the variant where it is finished capabel on the post … Spontaneously spontaneous it should not be different. Can check it tomorrow.